Naledi Threads Business Plan — Products and Merchandise Strategy

The range architecture, size curve, buying rhythm and the open-to-buy discipline that stops a boutique drowning in unsold stock.

Products and Merchandise Strategy

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  • 5.1 Range architecture
  • 5.2 Merchandise mix
  • 5.3 Sourcing and supply
  • 5.4 Open-to-buy discipline
  • 5.5 Markdown and clearance policy

5.1 Range architecture

The store opens with approximately 1 450 units at a cost of R225 000, across roughly 55 style options. Each style is bought in a full size curve from 30 to 46, weighted to 36–42. This produces an average cost per unit of about R155 and an average unit retail of about R270.

Range discipline is the operating philosophy. A 55 m² store that tries to carry breadth ends up with one of everything, no size depth, and a customer who cannot find her size in the item she wants. The plan buys fewer styles in greater depth, accepting that some customers will not find what they want on any given visit.

5.2 Merchandise mix

Planned merchandise mix at maturity, as a share of revenue
Figure 9. Planned merchandise mix at maturity, as a share of revenue.

Category

Revenue share

Target margin

Stock turn

Role in the range

Dresses and occasion wear

24.5%

57.5%

2.9x

Margin anchor; strongest defence against online

Tops, blouses and knitwear

22.0%

54.5%

4.2x

Volume driver and add-on sale

Bottoms: trousers, skirts, denim

18.5%

50.5%

3.4x

Fit-critical; the reason she comes in rather than orders

Outerwear and jackets

10.5%

52.5%

2.1x

Seasonal; high value, slow turn, markdown risk

Local designer capsule

9.5%

61.0%

2.4x

Differentiation; no reorder capability

Accessories

9.0%

64.0%

3.8x

Highest margin; drives units per transaction

Modest and traditional-modern edit

6.0%

56.0%

3.1x

Under-served locally; strong occasion demand

5.3 Sourcing and supply

Channel

Share of buy

Lead time

Terms and risk

Johannesburg CBD wholesale

42%

Immediate

Cash or 30 days once established; low minimums, no exclusivity

Local cut-make-and-trim and small manufacturers

23%

4–6 weeks

50% deposit; supports size-curve control and Buy Local positioning

Imported via local agents

20%

8–12 weeks

Deposit plus balance on landing; currency and duty exposure

Local designer capsule

9%

6–10 weeks

Consignment where possible; sale-or-return reduces markdown risk

Accessories wholesale

6%

1–2 weeks

30 days; low minimums, high margin

New retail accounts are usually opened on a cash basis. The model reflects this: creditor days start at 24 days and only reach 40 days by Year 5. Every additional day of supplier credit obtained in Year 1 releases roughly R2 925 of cash — which, given the Year 1 cash trough of R116 922, is not a trivial sum. Supplier terms negotiation should be treated as a funding activity, not a procurement one.

5.4 Open-to-buy discipline

The single most common cause of failure in independent fashion retail is buying more stock than the store can sell at full price. The controls are simple and must be non-negotiable.

  • A written open-to-buy budget per category per month, calculated as planned sales at cost plus planned closing stock less opening stock less stock on order.
  • No purchase order issued without available open-to-buy in that category. Overspend in one category must be funded by an explicit reduction in another.
  • Forward cover held between four and five months of cost of sales in Year 1, tightening as stock turn improves from 2.6 to 3.8 times.
  • A weekly best-seller and worst-seller report. Reorder the top decile within seven days where the supplier allows; mark down the bottom decile at week six, not week twelve.
  • A hard rule that no style enters a third season. Terminal stock is cleared, written off, or donated.

5.5 Markdown and clearance policy

Gross margin bridge: initial mark-on less markdown and shrinkage
Figure 10. Gross margin bridge: initial mark-on less markdown and shrinkage.

Margin build

Year 1

Year 2

Year 3

Year 4

Year 5

Initial mark-on

55.6%

55.6%

56.2%

56.5%

56.5%

Less: markdown and clearance

(5.5%)

(4.2%)

(3.7%)

(3.6%)

(3.4%)

Less: shrinkage and loss

(1.6%)

(1.4%)

(1.3%)

(1.1%)

(0.9%)

Achieved gross margin

48.5%

50.0%

51.2%

51.8%

52.2%

Gross profit

879 145

1 141 982

1 298 023

1 411 727

1 515 099

The store buys at an initial mark-on of about 55.6 per cent — roughly a 2.25 times cost multiple. It does not achieve that. Markdown and clearance take 5.5 points in Year 1 and shrinkage a further 1.6 points, leaving an achieved margin of 48.5 per cent.

The improvement to 52.2 per cent by Year 5 is not assumed to come from raising prices. It comes from three specific operational gains: better buying accuracy reducing the markdown drag from 5.5 to 3.4 points; tighter shrinkage control from 1.6 to 0.9 per cent of sales; and a modest lift in intake margin from direct sourcing. If those operational gains do not materialise, the margin does not improve — and Section 15 shows that a three-point margin miss costs R76 056 of Year 3 EBITDA, which is nearly half of it.

Trigger

Action

Discount

Purpose

Week 6, bottom decile

First markdown

20%

Recover cash early while demand remains

Week 10

Second markdown

35%

Clear before the season turns

Week 14

Clearance rail

50–60%

Convert to cash; free the fixture

End of season

Terminal clearance

70%+

No style enters a third season